First Road Trip Recon To Aegina
- Kelsey
- May 8, 2023
- 4 min read
Updated: Jun 29, 2023
Day One's Discoveries
On the 24th April 2023, I set off by car, with my friend Wendy driving, to carry out a 24-hour first impression mission to Aegina. We had no preconceived ideas beyond driving around as much of the island as possible, stopping to investigate along the way. My objectives: to see more of Greece and to consider whether Aegina might be a place for me to relocate to and whether there is a real estate opportunity. So I approached our time on the island from the point of view of living there rather than being a holiday visitor.
We sailed on the Saronic Ferries' ΑΧΑΙΟΣ car ferry from Gate E9 at Piraeus to Aegina Town. Our tickets cost €12 each and the car cost €29 one way. We booked directly online (in English the ferry is ACHAEOS) and collected our tickets from the kiosk on the port opposite the loading ramp of the ferry. Mindful of my wanting to take arrival photos we found seats on the open top deck, a perfect vantage point.
Arrival & Hotel
After an abortive attempt to drive straight, rather in circles, to the Aphrodite Art Hotel, frustrating considering I'd deliberately booked because it's only 200m from the end of the jetty, we parked the car with a ticket that cost €2 for 4 hours. Walking along many narrow streets, we eventually found the hotel and Popi, the lovely receptionist, gave us the right directions. Of course, the only road to the hotel was in the opposite direction we'd been trying to take! Wendy now gently simmering, I deemed it prudent to find a cafe for coffee and to discuss the non-existent plan I had in mind for the rest of the day.
Strolling along the harbour front was difficult because the covered outside-seating is crammed together almost obscuring the frontage of the beautiful Neo Classical buildings. You are compelled to walk on the other side of the road.
Miralice Restaurant and Bar
Happily, the first place we most liked the look of, turned out to be perfect. Wonderful staff and service, great menu, excellent coffee with a can-do feeling about the place. And I got all that from just a flying breakfast visit. It's just the all-day into all-night place I need as a base on Aegina. Fully rejuvenated we set of to explore the town and surroundings on foot.
Aegina Harbour
I was impressed by Aegina harbour, which to my inexperienced eye must be a dream for sailors because, water, electricity and rubbish collection is readily available. It's excellently organised and very clean. The harbour street is bound at one end by the Isodia Theotokou Church and to the other end by a huge, run down, but still beautiful building despite it's faded glory.
South of the Harbour
Walking south from the church, the coast road is lined with a narrow strip of beach that I can't imagine is used as a bathing point. About 300m along, opposite the football stadium, the Inn on the Beach shot high on my list of places to revisit when the season gets going. There's lots of seating areas, a spectacular seascape just far enough not to be disturbed by the noisy port, and a sweet little playground off a small, neat proper beach overlooked by the Inn's far side terraces. I would imagine it's popular with locals and visitors alike especially as the staff were very welcoming and pleasant.
Town Discoveries
On the way back to the other side of the harbour to retrieve the car there was plenty to peak my interest for the future. The interior of the Isodia Theotokou Church was glorious and even though a place of worship, we were welcome to drop some coins to light tapers and take photos.
The Tower of Markellos was intriguing and photogenic even though it wasn't open to visitors. The fish market was bustling more with cleaning up than selling as we'd missed the early morning catches. Walking along the town street that runs parallel with the harbour there were different styles of shops, some that wouldn't look out of place in Athens others, well ... I've seen better window displays at pop up charity shops, so not all were particularly inspiring. And the street with umbrellas suspended over the road really made us giggle as it's such a poor man's rip-off from the much better one in Athens where the idea came from. But we did find places we liked and shopped. I got a pair of sterling silver earrings for a very acceptable price of €8 and a slouchy suede bag for €65, both of which would have set me back double at home. We also had a quick look round the Aeginitikon Hotel for future stays. We gave it a thumbs up for character but made a mental note to request the ground floor room which had been more recently refurbished than those upstairs.
First Impressions
How to put this kindly ... Aegina is a bit like my face. When you take a photo you don't want to zoom in to closely.
In Aegina Town, I got a sense of a jumble of eras that don't sit comfortably together. Gentile Venetian Neoclassical architecture, a particular favourite of mine, seems crowded out by the vulgar 60s and 70s style of thrown up cheap hotels that have muscled themselves to the front like bullies fighting their way to the best view. I don't think anyone considered town planning or aesthetics!
Everyone we spoke to was friendly and willing to help, without exception. But there seemed to be a sense of everyone waiting for something better.
Overall, a bit run down to look and too much rubbish, graffiti and poor building maintenance. But lots of potential.
Unlike Hydra, I suspect Aegina hides it's best bits for them to be discovered gradually.
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